I screamed as our giant blue dune buggy plunged down a towering sand dune in Florence yesterday, risking life and limb to report the wild heart of the Oregon coast.

Man, the whole drive down Highway 101 felt like the Pacific Northwest showing off. We rolled through Newport, Waldport, and Yachats with that ocean popping in and out of the trees. It was one of those days, stunning as heck but windy enough in spots to make you grip the wheel a little tighter. Sea Lion Caves zipped past like a quick postcard. Then we hit Florence and spotted some kind of rally going on along the highway. Signs flapping, cars honking, people yelling.

The real fun kicked off at Sandland Adventures, just a mile or so south of town. Twenty five bucks a ticket. That’s all it took for me to hop into one of their massive blue giant dune buggies alongside about 20 other people, including two of my kids. Before we even pulled out of the parking lot I had already messed up. I realized I had brought a little bag of candy along. Strictly forbidden on the tour because sand plus sugar equals total disaster apparently. Our guide firmly reminded me of the rules right then and there. So there I was unbuckling like a kid caught red handed. Standing up in the buggy and hiking the whole way back to the car while the entire group and the driver watched me. Lesson learned the hard way folks. Leave the Skittles in your pocket next time.

Our ride turned out to be way more than just a vehicle. It was this rolling classroom run by a pro behind the wheel. He narrated the whole hour long trip. Pointing out every twist and hidden gem while educating us about the area.

Right away we zipped onto the highway for a quick stretch before we dove straight into the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. The scene on the way in was electric. People everywhere gearing up dune buggies, dirt bikes, and quads. Then out of nowhere this cute little deer just strolled across our path. It didn’t even flinch at all the engine noise. Just paused, gave us a quick look, and went right back into the trees like it owned the place.

Once we got deep into the sand it started to get awesome. Our guide swung us over to one of those famous tree islands. These are lush pockets of ancient forest that somehow hung on while the dunes shifted and swallowed everything else around them. Sitting there with towering evergreens shooting straight up out of the sand felt like stepping into a whole different world. He told us they are just remnants of the old coastal forest now turned into these green oases in a sea of shifting dunes. Pretty wild when you think about it.

Then we hit the beach run and he paused high above before announcing this was the original Highway 101. He was not kidding around either. Back in 1913 Governor Oswald West officially declared Oregon beaches a public highway. Before all the pavement and bridges stagecoaches, wagons, and early cars used that hard packed sand at low tide as the main coastal route. Driving along the same stretch felt like touching history with waves on one side and dunes on the other. Other riders on quads and buggies were out enjoying the day too but everybody stayed respectful. They pulled over on the tight spots and let our big blue beast have the right of way.

Spring rains had carved out these little streams of runoff across the sand so we splashed straight through them. Our guide said that come summer that water vanishes. Poof. Gone. But right now it’s part of what makes the ride special. We pushed into an expert section after that. Gnarly terrain where the buggy bounced like a bucking bronco. One guy in the back said “It’s like we’re riding a horse!” Low pressure tires and killer shocks soaked most of it up though. I just held on tight and kept snapping pics.

And then came the drop. He lined us up at the top of what felt like a sheer vertical dune. Down we went like the world’s biggest roller coaster. Screams exploded from every seat. Half terror and half pure joy. Mostly joy if I’m being honest. I looked back at what we just flew down:

The education woven into every overlook stop turned out to be really good. Our guide laid it out plain and simple. These legendary dunes, the same ones that inspired Frank Herbert’s Dune, are actually disappearing. Invasive European beachgrass got planted decades ago to stabilize sand near roads and towns. It did its job too well and went rogue. Now it is letting forests creep in and swallow up the open sand. Experts figure about 70 percent of the open dune habitat is already gone. In as little as 50 years much of this vast windswept playground could turn into forest instead of the rolling dunes we raced across yesterday. Pretty wild to think we were tearing through a natural wonder that is basically on borrowed time.

The hour flew by way too fast.

If you are anywhere near the central coast and craving an adventure that mixes thrill, history, and jaw dropping scenery you really should book one of these giant dune buggy tours at Sandland Adventures. It is family friendly, narrated by pros, and you will walk away with stories plus maybe a little sand in your eyes (BRING GLASSES) that will stick with you for a lifetime.

Beacon tip: Tours run daily. Check sandland.com for times and reservations. And remember no candy in the buggy.